The 2011 Pouilly-Fuisse Clos Reyssie comes from a bona fide clos with more clayey soils than Cornin’s other cuvees. It has a fragrant, nicely defined bouquet with touches of white peach and brioche. The palate is a little fuller than the other Pouilly-Fuisse wines from Cornin thanks to maturation in the Burgundy barrel, but the finish has fine definition and tension. Very fine. Located just outside the village of Chaintre is the small domaine of Dominique Cornin, one of several Cornins in this locale. They sold their crop to the co-operative up until 1993. Everything here is estate grown, the vines certified organic and the wines matured in stainless steel (for the Macon) and in demi-muids, which Romain Cornin informed me is the preferred vessel. This was my last visit of the week and I wished that I did not have to run and catch my flight home, for these were very succinct, traditional, terroir-driven wines that prioritize finesse over power or richness. “Less is more” might be the mantra here. Importer: Martine’s Wines, Novato, CA; tel. (415) 883-0400