The 2009 Greco di Tufo is laced with mineral-infused white fruits, wet stones and smoke. Fruit, acidity and structure are all beautifully balanced in this long, delineated entry-level Greco. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2012. Feudi di San Gregorio is coming back from a period in which it was essentially a victim of its own success. The winery’s early and numerous accolades plus fast, unbridled growth proved to be too much to handle. Today, under the leadership of proprietor Antonio Capaldo, Feudi seems to be much more grounded than in the past. Capaldo boasts an impressive resume, replete with world-class academic credentials and stints with Lazard in Paris and McKinsey in Italy. Despite his background, Capaldo remains humble, eager to learn and well aware of the family winery’s missteps in the past, all qualities which should serve him very well going forward. Noted agronomist Pierpaolo Sirch oversees the work in the vineyards and cellar now that Feudi is moving away from relying on consultants in favor of doing more in-house. The flashy, oak-laden style of previous vintages is gradually being phased out as Feudi relies more on the considerable pedigree of its vineyards. This will be a fascinating story to follow in the coming years. For now Feudi is still a work in progress, and in many cases, the entry-level wines provide more pleasure and varietal character than the higher-end bottlings. Importer: Palm Bay International, Boca Raton, FL; tel. (561) 362-9642

This is a really fantastic white wine from southern Italy that expresses much of the complexity and beauty of the land that shaped it. It also promises a perfect pairing match to any Mediterranean fish dish—from mussels with coarse black pepper or steamed calamari in lemon juice and olive oil. ——M.L.(6/1/2011)—— 88