Faiveley's 2008 Chambertin Clos de Bèze Grand Cru is drinking beautifully, wafting from the glass with a deep and complex bouquet of wild berries, candied peel, musk, black truffle, rose hip and rich loamy soil. On the palate, the wine is full-bodied, ample and enveloping, with melting tannins, a succulent core of sumptuously degraded fruit, ripe but racy acids and a long, intensely sapid finish. Picked in October, and only the second vintage in Faiveley's new and less extractive stylistic register, this Clos de Bèze is only 11 years old, but already it harks back to a past era of later, cooler harvests.
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