Vanya also gave me a taste of the 2001 Diana Madeline, one of her best recent vintages of this wine. Very deep garnet black in color, it has complex, savory, meaty aromas with an undercurrent of Chinese dried plums and soy, opening-out with air to espresso, leather and tobacco. At 14% alcohol and with a full body, the rich palate gives concentrated fruit, medium-firm fine tannins, crisp acidity and a long, chewy finish. Drink it now to 2017+. An outspoken proponent of Biodynamics, Vanya Cullen converted fully in 2006 and makes a strong argument for the methods and philosophy with her wines. When I met with her, one of her first major points is that their conversion to Biodynamics appears to allow physiological ripeness to happen earlier, meaning they can harvest earlier and make slightly lighter styles. The prime examples of this are her excellent Semillon Sauvignon blends – both 2009s came in beautifully flavorsome at just 11.5% alcohol. Importer: Old Bridge Cellars, Napa, CA; www.oldbridgecellars.com

This is the flagship red from Cullen’s Wilyabrup vineyards in Margaret River. A classic blend of Cabernet and Merlot, aged for 18 months in wood, it has huge, ripe fruit, along with elegance. Flavors of chocolate, mulberry and spices come together with ripe tannins. This wine definitely needs aging—give it five years at least. Imported by Winebow. ——R.V.