The 2004 RESERVA “DUAS QUINTAS” has been a favorite over the years and it is holding beautifully, just as I had expected. It is mostly Touriga Nacional (80%), and it seems fresh, powerful and aromatic, still ripe and still integrating its oak, yet with traces of refinement and elegance. This wine is developing well, if slowly. This is a very fine DQ Reserva that seems to have miles to go and still seems youthful and primary. It wouldn’t hurt to hold this another year or three to allow it to integrate its parts a bit better, but it can certainly be drunk now. Thinking also about the ‘04 Reserva Especial, I can say that Ramos Pinto had a nice vintage in ‘04. Drink now-2022. There are reports from two vertical tastings here, Duas Quintas and the unusual Reserva Especials. These were poured at the winery in Douro. Let’s take the Reserva Especials first. While some modern iterations, like the ‘04 and ‘07, were simply normal if quite ageworthy table wines, the others were quite deliberately Port in disguise, that is, dry table wines intended to be like what Winemaker and Managing Director Joao Nicolau de Almeida called old style (pre-1820) Port. The alcohol is not Port-like and they are dry, but they sure smelled like Port. They seemed to be a cross between a tawny and a table wine. Joao advised drinking those made in that style as an aperitif. That makes them rather unusual beasts and hard to evaluate. For those that show that way, you’ll like ‘em or not and not everyone will agree. I thought they were as special as their name implied and simply fascinating. If later releases like the ‘04 and ‘07 seemed to abandon that Port-y style, the ‘08 (as yet unreleased and no note published as yet) seemed again to smell more like the earlier Port-like versions. It will be interesting to see what it will be like when it finally arrives on our shores. Regarding the Duas Quintas Reservas, Joao also kindly poured some older ones for me. This is one of Douro’s iconic brands, inexpensive and traditional table wines that generally age beautifully. From both verticals, all of the older vintages are, of course, library wines that may not be readily available. Importer: Maison Marques & Domaines USA, Inc., Oakland, Ca.; tel: (510) 286-2000.

Tightly coiled, the firm tannins hold down the exuberant berry fruits and fresh acidity. It is certainly young, but the elegance is already here, as well as the herb and spice seasoning from wood. The dry aftertaste reinforces the need for aging, at least 4–5 years.——R.V.(7/1/2008)—— 90