Dark ruby/purple-hued with sweet black currant, spring flower, cedar and subtle earthy notes, the 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon Fay Vineyard Estate is a classic Napa Cabernet with both elegance and complexity. It can be drunk now or cellared for 12-14 years. Dramatic improvements are clearly underway at Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars, which was sold to a consortium led by Tuscany’s Piero Antinori in 2007. Antinori brought in well-known consultant Renzo Cotarella to improve the quality and, hopefully, get this winery back to the lofty heights it achieved in the seventies and early eighties. They seem to be well on their way, which is good news for consumers. This is a large estate of 104 acres, all situated as one giant block of vineyards in the southern part of the Stags Leap appellation. The change in ownership and winemaking staff shows progressive improvement with each vintage starting with 2007. The 2009s look to be their best wines to date. As for the 2007 reds, normally four cuvees are produced, all based on Cabernet Sauvignon, including the Cask 23, which comes from the best lots from the Fay and S.L.V. estate vineyards after fermentations are completed. The most impressive Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars’ offerings made since the 1985 vintage are the three 2009s I was permitted to taste from barrel. Tel. (707) 944-2020; Fax (707) 257-7501

So upfront in spectacularly ripe raspberry, cherry and mocha flavors, it’s hard to keep from draining the bottle now. This shows the classic tannins of Stags Leap, soft and sweet but potent. Drink it now and enjoy for sheer opulence, but you might be missing out on something really special around 2016.——S.H.(4/1/2012)—— 94