Dugat’s micro-climatically diverse parcels of village Gevrey with vines 30-50 years of age inform his 2005 Gevrey-Chambertin Vieilles Vignes, which had just been bottled when I visited (whereas the other wines would be bottled in a month or more). Dugat says his sulfuring was as light as possible, and this wine is certainly not suffering in any obvious way. It boasts a wonderfully silky suppleness of texture, juicy and engaging black raspberry and pomegranate fruit character, and a finish featuring notes of game, forest floor, fruit skin tartness, and the bitter side of vanilla bean, but with more brightness, lift and exuberance than the firm and darkly-shaded wines typical of this vintage. Not that this wine lacks for grip or visceral intensity. Sock some away for 8-10 years. Importer: Weygandt-Metzler, Unionville, PA; tel. (610) 486-0800.