I tasted the Dugat family's 1980 Gevrey-Chambertin Vieilles Vignes 40 years to the day when it was harvested on 19 October. Offering up aromas of orange rind, rose petals, plums and rich forest floor, it's medium-bodied, layered and fleshy, with a round, enveloping core of judiciously chaptalized fruit, melting tannins and a sapid, spicy finish. This wine is fully mature today.