The 2003 Calvario has a lovely, Northern Rhone-like bouquet with animally black fruit, lush blueberry and touches of cassis that remain beautifully defined. The palate is full-bodied with saturated tannins: layers of toasty red berry fruit laced with white pepper, thyme and soy. The finish is showing very good weight, its muscularity indicating that it needs another 4 to 5 years in bottle. Drink 2015-2025.
Commencing with the Allende Blanc, I was impressed by how well this ages. Predominantly Viura with a higher percentage of Malvasia in older vintages, it develops a fine waxy texture and almost dried Barsac-like personality.