I prefer the 2002 Calvario, which offers blackberry, licorice, autumn leaves and mulberry on a well-defined bouquet that demands coaxing. The palate is sweet and rounded on the entry, but exhibits greater backbone and composure than the 2001, with attractive raspberry leaf, bitter cherry and soy on the long, satisfying finish. Drink now-2022.
Commencing with the Allende Blanc, I was impressed by how well this ages. Predominantly Viura with a higher percentage of Malvasia in older vintages, it develops a fine waxy texture and almost dried Barsac-like personality.