The dark ruby/plum-hued 2009 Chateauneuf du Pape Tradition is a sexy, open-knit, delicious, richly fruity, full-bodied wine with lots of herbes de Provence/bouquet garni notes intermixed with hints of graphite, plums, figs, blueberries and black raspberries. Round and generous, it is ideal for drinking over the next decade. As at many Chateauneuf du Pape estates, brothers Jean and Jean-Paul Versino have 38 acres of vines split among 27 different parcels, nearly equally divided between the southern and northern sectors of the appellation. The Chateauneuf du Pape Tradition is a blend of 65% Grenache and the rest equal parts Syrah and Mourvedre as well as tiny dollops of such obscure grapes as Cinsault and Counoise. The luxury offering, Cuvee de Felix, comes from 80-100 year old vines and is composed of 65% Grenache, 25% Mourvedre, 5% Syrah and 5% miscellaneous varietals. The traditional cuvee is aged in wood foudres and the Cuvee de Felix in small, old oak barrels. The 2010s reveal denser purple colors as well as more acidity, structure and tannin, fruit and extract. Importer: Louis/Dressner Selections, New York, NY; tel. (212) 334-8191