I’ve always loved the 2007 Chateauneuf du Pape from Paul Versino, and it has drunk well since release. Full-bodied, rich and mouth-filling, with some still-present tannin, it has a core of sweet, ripe cherry fruit, licorice, sweaty saddle leather and garrigue. At the end of the day, I think the tannin will win the battle with the fruit, but this beauty has loads of Provencal charm and will continue drinking nicely for 4-5 years, if not longer.

The brilliant 2007 Chateauneuf du Pape offers classic Provencal aromas of garrigue (that roasted herb, windswept smell of Provence), truffles, ground pepper, and kirsch. This full-bodied, rich, fleshy, complex wine is already drinking well. It should evolve nicely for 10-15 years. The Versino family is another that immigrated from Italy to Chateauneuf du Pape. The current proprietor, Jean-Paul Versino, has produced a bevy of beautiful wines from the Bois de Boursan’s 40+ acres of vineyards. In 2008, none of the special cuvees were made.Importer: J & R Selections, Lansing, MI; tel. (517) 772-3695, Arbor Way Imports, Boston, MA; tel. (71) 863-1753; and Louis/Dressner, New York, NY; tel. (212) 334-8191