The 2007 Syrah Roll Ranch comes across as decidedly powerful in style. This is the warmest microclimate Ojai works with, but it is the year that speaks loudest here. The vintage follows the drought year of 2006, and the berry size was quite small according to Adam Tolmach. The Roll Ranch is an intense, tannic wine that needs time to come around, but it is hugely fascinating. There is 2% Viognier co-fermented in the blend. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2022. I admit I have mixed feelings about the wines I tasted at Ojai with proprietor Adam Tolmach and winemaker Fabien Castel. On the positive side, the wines are classy, elegant and also very fairly priced considering the quality of what is in the bottle. At the same time, it is obvious yields aren’t particularly low, which is somewhat mystifying considering Tolmach works with first-rate sites and is clearly getting pristine fruit. Don’t get me wrong, these are excellent wines?but they could be truly great, and maybe beyond great. The cellars are kept cold year-round, while the approach to winemaking remains quite minimalist. All of the whites are fermented in barrel, with full malolactic fermentation and very low levels of new oak. The Pinots are aged on their lees and are racked only before bottling. The Pinots see 25-35% new oak, while the Syrahs see even less. In recent years Tolmach has begun experimenting with whole clusters for both his Pinots and Syrahs. Tel. (805) 649-1674; www.ojaivineyard.com