The 2007 Barolo Mosconi offers up layers of dark fruit, espresso, licorice, new leather and French oak in an explosive style typical of this south-facing site. Here, too, the integration of the oak is superb. The Mosconi shows plenty of freshness and should drink well for at least another decade. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2027. The recently completed new cellar at Conterno-Fantino is stunningly beautiful, particularly in the way contemporary materials are used in an open, spartan and tasteful style that does not draw unnecessary attention to itself. I tasted a wide range of Baroli, including all of the 2009s and 2008s from barrel. Today the 2008s seem to have the upper hand, but there is plenty of time to follow the development of both vintages. In the meantime, readers will want to focus on this superb set of 2007s. As outstanding as the wines are, the vintage has leveled the playing field to a significant extent between the estate’s least and best exposed vineyards, as it has for quite a few growers. The Baroli are made in a modern style, as they have been for many years now. The wines see relatively short fermentations in rotary fermenters and are aged in new oak, although a portion of each Barolo now spends time in cask.Importer: Empson, USA, Alexandria, VA; tel. (703) 684-0900
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