The 2004 Barolo Mosconi is the first release from this south-facing vineyard in Monforte, which the estate controls through a long-term lease. It is an impressively endowed, full-bodied Barolo with a multitude of tar, smoke, mocha, vanilla, mint and sweet dark fruit flavors that coat the palate with superb depth and persistence. As is usually the case with Barolos from this site, the wine is made in a distinctly powerful style that emphasizes fruit at the slight expense of aromatic complexity. That notwithstanding, it is a compelling Barolo. In 2004 the Mosconi contains fruit from only the oldest vines. A parcel the estate replanted will be added to the wine in forthcoming vintages. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2022. I have long enjoyed the Conterno-Fantino Barolos but in recent years Claudio Conterno and Guido Fantino have taken their wines to an entirely new level. These Barolos can often be massively structured and difficult to evaluate at an early stage yet the 2004s have incredibly sweet, ripe tannins that makes them a pure joy to taste. Simply put, this is a superb collection of 2004 Barolos. “We harvested most of our fruit on October 5 and 6,” says Guido Fantino. “We did 6-8 days of fermentation after which the wines went into French oak (100% new). The malos were very long and weren’t completely finished until January.”Importer: Empson USA, Alexandria, VA; tel. (703) 684-0900

Oak suppresses the fruit. Concentrated but bland in its expression, some gritty tannins, lacks lift and flair. Long.