The 2005 Barolo Mosconi is decidedly more muscular and dense than the Vigna del Gris, much of which can be attributed to the vineyard’s pure south exposure. Here the wine lacks the aromatic definition found in both Vigna del Gris and Sori Ginestra, but the Mosconi’s voluptuous, round texture compensates. This stylish, generous Barolo offers tons of balance in a harmonious style. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2025. This is a gorgeous set of wines from Conterno-Fantino. My November visit coincided with the first of several heavy snowfalls the region experienced during the winter of 2008/2009. Navigating the steep hills of Monforte and environs was oddly calming as there was no one on the roads. As for the wines, they were magnificent. Conterno-Fantino fans have much to look forward to as the estate’s 2006, 2007 and 2008 Barolos all appeared very promising when I tasted them from barrel. In the meantime, these fine 2005s are among the most gorgeous and well-balanced wines I encountered. Not much has changed here in terms of vinification. The 2005s were vinified in rotary fermenters and aged in 100% new French oak barrels from coopers Taransaud, Boutes and Quintessence. Be that as it may, the wines seem increasingly elegant and refined. Conterno-Fantino remains one of my favorite Piedmont producers and is to be commended for the consistently high quality it delivers across its entire range.Importer: Empson, USA, Alexandria, VA; tel. (703) 684-0900

Barolo Mosconi drinks young at this stage but already paints a pretty picture of the 2005 vintage. The wine offers direct intensity and layered aromas of luscious chocolate and coffee with loads of spice, leather and tar on the finish. The tannins are still a bit aggressive, so give this wine time to age: Drink after 2018.——M.L.(4/1/2009)—— 93