The 1998, a classic in the making, is, along with the 1990, one of the two finest Vieux Donjons I have tasted. The backward 1998 offers aromas of incense, roasted herbs, lavender, licorice, and kirsch liqueur in a full-bodied, sweet, expansive, structured style. It should last another 15-20 years. Importer: Alain Junguenet, Wines of France, Mountainside, NJ; tel. (908) 654-6173

Inky and rustic, yet in a refined manner. This is knock-out juice if you like ’em big and flavorful. The full bouquet of grape, raisin, oak, licorice and herb aromas pulls you in and the follow-up palate of dense blackberry flavors with herb and smoke shadings fulfills the promise the nose makes. Loads of oak here, but there’s great depth of fruit for it to play against. A definite keeper; hold for three or four years at least. ——M.M.(12/31/2000)—— 94