Le Vieux Donjon, Chateauneuf-du-Pape, France

老教堂酒莊教皇新堡紅葡萄酒

點(diǎn)擊次數(shù)：45671

A brilliant effort that ranks alongside the 2007, the 2010 Chateauneuf du Pape boasts abundant notes of black cherry liqueur interwoven with black currant, blueberry, spring flower, roasted herb, licorice, pepper and bouquet garni characteristics. Full-bodied with good acidity, terrific purity, a fleshy mouthfeel and a long finish, it should be even better in 4-5 years and last for two decades or more. (Not yet released)Now that Lucien Michel has inched his way into retirement, his young daughter, Claire, who did an apprenticeship at Napa’s Harlan Estate, is in full control of the winemaking (another example of a woman who has taken charge of a famous estate).Importer: Alain Junguenet, Wines of France, Mountainside, NJ; tel. (908) 654-6173

On another level, the 2010 Chateauneuf du Pape is rock-star stuff, and is probably my favorite vintage from this estate to date. Deeply colored, it boasts masculine, meaty aromas and flavors of smoked herbs, pepper, licorice, lavender, crushed rock and blackberries to go with a full-bodied, concentrated and rich style on the palate. There’s ample tannin here, yet they’re sweet and beautifully integrated. Give it another handful of years and drink it over the following two decades. Another bastillion of traditional Chateauneuf du Pape, Vieux Donjon is owned by Lucien and Marie Jose Michel, with the winemaking now firmly in the hands of their talented daughter, Claire Michel. They produce a single red and white Chateauneuf du Pape, with the red always a rough blend of 75% Grenache, 10% Syrah, 10% Mourvedre and the balance a mix of other permitted varieties. They started partial destemming in 1993, pulling out the green stems and keeping the more lignified stems. Aging occurs all in concrete tanks and older foudre. This was a fabulous tasting with both Claire and her brother Francois, and as I hope the notes show, the wines have classic Chateauneuf du Pape character and broad drink windows. Importer: Alain Junguenet, Wines of France, Mountainside, NJ; tel. (908) 654-6173

This takes a decidedly old-school approach with its very distinctive bay leaf and juniper notes leading the way, along with roasted mesquite and alder wood. The core of steeped black currant, roasted plum and blackberry fruit waits in reserve while the long, ganache- and tar-filled finish has nice rugged grip, with a peppery echo. Should cellar wonderfully. Best from 2015 through 2030. 8,000 cases made. –JM