Thierry Glantenay's 2015 Volnay 1er Cru Clos des Chênes is superb, wafting from the glass with a deep bouquet of cherries, elderberry, wood smoke and dark chocolate. On the palate, the wine is full-bodied, concentrated and complete, with a textural attack and fabulous depth and dimension, its tannins fine-grained and velvety, its finish long and intense. This benchmark Clos des Chênes was immensely promising from barrel, and though it has tightened up a little after bottling, all its huge potential is intact: the only missing ingredient is time.