Tasted blind at the Burgundy 2011 horizontal tasting in Beaune. There is clearly a lot of stem addition showing through on the Volnay Clos des Chênes from Glantenay: an earthy, green-ish bouquet that might be described as very traditional Burgundy. But it is fresh and detailed and brimming over with character. The palate is medium-bodied with moderate weight and intensity. This is masculine, earthy, austere and aloof, perhaps a little attenuated toward the finish and needing a little more flesh to pull off this style. Consequently, it feels a little brittle and bony in the mouth.