The 1999 Brunello di Montalcino is spicy but a bit overripe in aroma and too alcoholic. The length on the palate is adequate, but the texture too lean and dry, and the sweetness is more from the oak than the fruit. Some bottle time may help, but part of the blend might well have been better used for a Rosso di Montalcino. I have not been overly enamored of the wines of this house in the past, often overtly “international” in the wrong way and regularly with a heavy lick of oak which tends to standardize the wines. I was hoping for a change of course in the 1999 vintage, but did not find it.Importer: Wilson Daniels, St. Helena, CA; tel. (707) 963-9661

Surprisingly mature in color, with hues of rust and brown. It smells gorgeous as it offers intoxicating floral aromas mixed with rooty notes and earth. With spice and dried fruit enveloping the palate, it’s all you could want. And the texture is easy enough to allow for drinking within two years. ——M.S.(6/1/2004)—— 91