Vasse Felix’s 2008 Chardonnay is a remarkable value. It was partially wild yeast fermented and 86% of the wine was aged in French oak, 42% new on its lees with batonnage. It delivers a bouquet of toast, biscotti, baked apple, and tropical notes. This is followed by an intensely flavored, elegant Chardonnay with superb balance and a lengthy, fruit-filled finish. It offers outrageous bang for the buck. Importer: Negociants USA, Napa, CA; tel. (707) 259-0993

Bright and limey, with butterscotch notes punctuating the citrus fruit. The crisp palate is light-to-medium- bodied and winds up on a fleeting mineral note. Try with halibut. Best now to 2011. ——W.E.(6/1/2010)—— 85