The 2004 Chianti Classico Riserva Il Poggio is simply gorgeous. It is a layered, finessed wine of notable detail, with tons of potential hiding behind its restrained facade. With air, notes of earthiness, tobacco, spices, menthol and dark fruit gradually emerge from this classically built wine. Although the wine is beautifully balanced today, it requires additional cellaring to blossom fully. In 2004 Il Poggio was aged exclusively in aged tonneaux, which signals a move away from a percentage of new oak and smaller barrels that recent previous vintage had seen. The change in aging regime seems to allow for the full breadth of the unique qualities of Sangiovese and the Il Poggio vineyard to come through. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2029.My recent visit to Castello di Monsanto was memorable. In addition to the current releases, I had a chance to taste a few older vintages of the estate’s benchmark Chianti Classico Riserva Il Poggio. Monsanto is one of the small handful of estates to have kept a vast library of its past vintages, a few of which it re-releases every year to select customers. Needless to say, in today’s world of highly suspect collectible wines, the chance to buy impeccably stored older vintages of unquestioned provenance is a huge service to consumers. Kudos to proprietor Laura Bianchi and oenologist Andrea Giovannini. These are simply beautiful wines. Although Monsanto’s Chiantis are impressive, readers should not overlook the Nemo (Cabernet Sauvignon) which is stunning in both 2003 and 2004. Here the use of French oak seems to be much better suited to the grape, and the wines are breathtaking. Nemo is made from the Il Mulino vineyard, which was planted in 1976.Importer: Moet Hennessy USA, New York, NY; tel. (212) 251-8200

Il Poggio is a Riserva in the true meaning of the word: it’s intense and generous and you can sense that a sophisticated oak regimen has been implemented to add just the just measure of toast. But the enormous appeal of the wine relies on both acidity and the quality of the fruit.——M.L.(6/1/2009)—— 92

In homage to Chianti Classico tradition, this Riserva sees Sangiovese with 10% Canaiolo and Colorino for added texture, saturation and intensity. It’s a firm, steady red that would pair beautifully with veal or roast pork.——M.L.(4/1/2011)—— 91