The 2003 Chianti Classico Riserva Il Poggio is a firm, weighty version of this wine. The heat of the vintage has produced a plump, opulent Il Poggio redolent of earthiness, tobacco, smoke, spices and dark fruit. The tannins are big, yet well-integrated, the only open question is whether the fruit will last as long as the wine’s structural components. Still, this is a pretty Il Poggio with plenty of upside. In 2003 Il Poggio was aged in French oak barriques of which 40% were new. Anticipated maturity: 2011-2025.My recent visit to Castello di Monsanto was memorable. In addition to the current releases, I had a chance to taste a few older vintages of the estate’s benchmark Chianti Classico Riserva Il Poggio. Monsanto is one of the small handful of estates to have kept a vast library of its past vintages, a few of which it re-releases every year to select customers. Needless to say, in today’s world of highly suspect collectible wines, the chance to buy impeccably stored older vintages of unquestioned provenance is a huge service to consumers. Kudos to proprietor Laura Bianchi and oenologist Andrea Giovannini. These are simply beautiful wines. Although Monsanto’s Chiantis are impressive, readers should not overlook the Nemo (Cabernet Sauvignon) which is stunning in both 2003 and 2004. Here the use of French oak seems to be much better suited to the grape, and the wines are breathtaking. Nemo is made from the Il Mulino vineyard, which was planted in 1976.Importer: Moet Hennessy USA, New York, NY; tel. (212) 251-8200

Here’s a wine that showcases a nice evolution: Initial fruit aromas give way to toasted wood, vanilla and bramble. Overall, it shows a clean, linear quality, although it does end strong with oak notes; astringent but very persistent on the finish. ——M.L.(5/1/2007)—— 90