Kirsch, smoke and a hint of alcohol emerge from this muscle-bound, highly traditional Chianti. Cherry, spice and pepper dominate the palate, which leads into a tight-grained, heavily tannic finish. The balance is impeccable, as is the purity, but if what you are looking for is a wide-open, fruit-forward wine, this may not be your bag. Give it at least five or six years before opening. —M.S.——M.S.(12/31/2002)—— 92