The dark ruby/purple-hued 1997 Chianti Classico Riserva Il Poggio offers a stunning aromatic display of jammy black fruits, balsam wood, dried herbs, licorice, and a Provencal/garrigue smell. Some peppery notes even came through. Full-bodied, concentrated, and fat, with high glycerin levels, a chewy, plush, succulent personality, sweet tannin, gobs of fruit, and a long, heady finish, this 1997 is already disarmingly delicious, but should age nicely for 12-15 years.Importer: Clicquot Inc., New York, NY; tel. (212) 888-7575

This inky wine is large and very dark in flavor as well as color, with toast, fennel, black cherry and tea on the nose and palate. Full and smooth in the mouth, it shows some attractive spice and good acidity. Finishes long, with full, mouth-coating tannins that need three or more years to resolve.——W.E.(4/1/2001)—— 87