The 2004 Pinot Noir “Arcus Estate” was aged in 75% new French oak for 11 months. The nose is muted but with coaxing spicy red cherries, currants, roses, and spice box push through the oak. In the mouth it has attractive spicy red fruit flavors and a supple texture but a boatload of tannin in the finish. The wine clearly needs time but will the fruit hold? Tel. (800) 732-8822; www.archerysummit.com

The Arcus estate vineyard includes plantings from 1973 and is easily the best wine made at Archery Summit. The fruit flavors weave together black cherry, fig and currant, beautifully integrated with the bacon fat notes from the new French oak. It’s well-balanced and does not show the rough tannins that affect the rest of the lineup. This is a solid, somewhat blocky wine, substantial and delicious, and quite likely to improve over the next six to eight years.——P.G.(2/1/2008)—— 90