The medium to dark ruby-colored 1999 Pinot Noir Arcus Estate (842 cases produced) has a gorgeously pure nose of red cherries, blackberries, and violets. This intense, medium-bodied wine is crammed with cassis, black cherries, blackberries, loads of spices, and dark raspberries. Its attack and mid-palate are focused, juicy, and highly expressive. Its finish is foursquare, yet it possesses the requisite fruit to dominate its tannin. Anticipated maturity: 2005-2012. Tel. (503) 864-4300.

I don’t know why this is labeled “Oregon” rather than Yamhill county, where the vineyard sits. It is a very young, very tight wine, with flavors that run the gamut of red and black fruits, and a good bit of tannin. There’s not much oak in evidence at this point; it’s mostly fruit and tannin, and tough to pry loose at that. Re-tasted several days after being opened, it had not only held up but actually improved, suggesting that its layers of flavor, hidden today, will blossom in due time.——P.G.(11/1/2001)—— 90