The 1994 Pinot Noir Arcus Estate proves why you can't judge a Pinot Noir by its color. Although it possesses the lightest ruby color of the three wines reviewed from this producer, it boasts a stunning bouquet as well as the richest, most expansive flavors. The knock-out aromatics offer up smoked meats, sweet, jammy, berry fruit, and toasty oak. The wine has a gorgeous texture with layers of candy-like fruit that caress the palate. The finish is a hedonistic concoction of glycerin, jammy cherry fruit, and alcohol, slightly infused with some pain grillee notes. Made in the seductive style of a top grand cru from Chambolle-Musigny, it is a winner. As readers might expect, it was made in microscopic quantities (under 100 cases). Drink it over the next 5-6 years.
I predict that this newcomer to the Oregon wine scene will quickly emerge as one of the star producers. The exquisite winemaking facility is state of the art, illustrative of the commitment of Californian Gary Andrus and the investment consortium behind him to produce world-class Pinot Noir from the red hills of Dundee. At present, production is small, but will increase with up-coming vintages.
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