One of the best run estates of Tuscany, proprietor Elisabetta Geppetti, along with winemaker/oenologist Riccardo Cotarella, has turned out a juicy, impressively concentrated, hedonistic wine. The single-vineyard 1997 Morellino di Scansano Poggio Valente spends time in barrel, and is bottled without fining or filtration. This offering could be called a Tuscan Pomerol. Dense opaque purple-colored, this 100% Sangiovese (made from extremely low yields of 2.3 tons of fruit per acre) is medium to full-bodied with no hard edges. Succulent and velvety-textured, with copious amounts of fruit (black cherries, plums, and cassis), this gorgeously-styled, hedonistic, plump wine will provide thrilling drinking. It should evolve nicely for 6-7 years.A Leonardo Locascio Selection, Winebow, Hohokus, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620