The 2007 Passiro is a sweet dessert wine made from air-dried Roscetto, one of Lazio’s native varieties. The 2007 is particularly successful, with graceful layers of apricots, lightly dried figs, orange peel and flowers that come together beautifully in the glass. Soft, sweet tannins frame an impeccable finish. This beautiful wine keeps getting better and better as it sits in the glass. It is a wonderful effort from Riccardo Cotarella. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2015. Proprietor Riccardo Cotarella is a fountain of energy. Cotarella is best known for his numerous consulting projects, but in recent years he has devoted considerable attention to reviving some of the indigenous and obscure varieties found in Lazio and Umbria.A Leonardo Lo Cascio Selection, Winebow, Montvale, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620

Passiro is a gorgeous dessert wine from Lazio in central Italy that shows enormous beauty and harmony. The wine is thick and creamy and brightens the palate with its bouquet of honey, creamy vanilla, candied fruit and apricot. Pair it with pate or aged cheese.——M.L.(12/31/2010)—— 95