Is Chenin experiencing a renaissance in South Africa? This wine would suggest so, with its taut, layered elegance and sophisticated overall style. The nose is complex, with varying degrees of crisp citrus, flowers and spice. On the palate, it unfolds subtly, with lime, spice and honeyed fruit all sparkling and in sync. It goes without saying that this wine is food-friendly, but it's good enough to be savored on its own.——S.K.(7/1/2007)—— 89