The Meursault Perrieres satisfies both my cravings for corporal as well as intellectual gratification. It has a somewhat austere nose of roasted nuts, rocks, and wet stones that lead to a magnificently rich yet superbly focused character. This medium-to-full-bodied beauty is profoundly ripe and complex, enormously concentrated, yet possesses lace-like precision to its mineral, earth, and crisp pear flavors. Its combination of superb balance and depth of fruit guarantee that it will be an ageworthy 1997 white Burgundy. Anticipated maturity: 2001-2008. Importer: Clicquot, Inc., New York, NY; tel (212) 888-7575.

The Meursault Perrieres satisfies both my cravings for corporal as well as intellectual gratification. It has a somewhat austere nose of roasted nuts, rocks, and wet stones that lead to a magnificently rich yet superbly focused character. This medium-to-full-bodied beauty is profoundly ripe and complex, enormously concentrated, yet possesses lace-like precision to its mineral, earth, and crisp pear flavors. Its combination of superb balance and depth of fruit guarantee that it will be an ageworthy 1997 white Burgundy. Anticipated maturity: 2001-2008.Importer: Clicquot, Inc., New York, NY; tel (212) 888-7575.