Slightly more structured and backward, but potentially better is the 2009 Vacqueyras Les Genestes, a blend of 58% Grenache, 40% Syrah and a dollop of Mourvedre. Tightly knit but very concentrated, it exhibits an inky/ruby/purple color and notes of creosote, roasted Provencal herbs, charcuterie, smoke and black and red fruits. Viscous with low acidity, sweet tannin and a reserved but potentially explosive personality, it should evolve nicely for a decade. Domaines des Amouriers, owned by the Chudzikiewicz family, has been one of the most reliable and consistent producers of top-flight Vacqueyras for many years. They have a total of 75 acres of vines of which 37 are in Vacqueyras, an up-and-coming appellation increasingly prized for consistency and high quality. Importers: J & R Selections, Lansing, MI; tel. (517) 393-4441; Robert Kacher Selections, Washington, DC; tel. (202) 832-9083; David Vincent Selections, NJ; and J and J Importers, Bloomfield Hills, MI; tel. (248) 528-9463