Recently bottled, the 2015 Vacqueyras les Aubes is a blend of 80% Grenache and 20% Syrah from two lieux-dits. This medium to full-bodied wine is bright, crisp and long, with black cherry fruit and cinnamon-clove spice accents. Decant if drinking it soon to allow some post-bottling funk to dissipate.

Tasted out of barrel, the 2012 Vacqueyras Les Aubes is a blend of 80% Grenache and 20% Syrah. Floral and fresh, with plenty of sweet red fruits, underbrush and licorice, this medium-bodied, energetic and lively effort should be consumed over the coming 5-6 years. This was a solid tasting with proprietor Yves Gras. One of the benchmark estates in Gigondas, the estate also releases a number of high-quality negociant wines from Sablet, Vin de Pays and Cotes du Rhone. While 2011 and 2012 are strong vintages here, the wines are more streamlines and focused than in the past, and in the case of the 2012s, should benefit from short-term cellaring, as I found most to be closed and tight. Importer: Robert Kacher Selections, New York, NY; tel. (212) 239-1275

Also delicious, solid effort, the 2011 Vacqueyras Les Aubes (80% Grenache and 20% Syrah) dishes up plenty of pepper, earth, licorice and smoky black fruits to go with a medium-bodied, nicely textured profile on the palate. Scoring high on sheer drinkability, it should be consumed over the coming 4-5 years. This was a solid tasting with proprietor Yves Gras. One of the benchmark estates in Gigondas, the estate also releases a number of high-quality negociant wines from Sablet, Vin de Pays and Cotes du Rhone. While 2011 and 2012 are strong vintages here, the wines are more streamlines and focused than in the past, and in the case of the 2012s, should benefit from short-term cellaring, as I found most to be closed and tight. Importer: Robert Kacher Selections, New York, NY; tel. (212) 239-1275

Better than I had predicted last year is the brilliant 2010 Vacqueyras Les Aubes (also 80% Grenache and 20% Syrah). It is a big, masculine, full-throttle, flamboyant red displaying plenty of ripe black currant and black cherry fruit interwoven with Provencal herb, pepper and licorice notes. This impressive, rich, pure, lusty 2010 should drink well for a decade. Several years ago Yves Gras purchased some hectares from Paul Jeune (the proprietor of Mont Pertuis) in the renowned La Crau sector of Chateauneuf du Pape, and his first two efforts are noteworthy. Under the negociant label called Santa Duc Selections, Gras produces some delicious white wines that merit attention from consumers. They are generally blends of Bourboulenc, Grenache Blanc, Clairette and Viognier. Yves Gras is also the winemaker for Patricia Wells, who has a home and cooking school in Vaison La Romaine, a few miles north of Gigondas. Her estate is called Clos Chanteduc. The Domaine Santa Duc produces a Cotes du Rhone called Les Quatres Terres, which is a 4,000-case blend of 70% Grenache, 25% Syrah and the rest Counoise and Mourvedre. Importer: Robert Kacher Selections, New York, NY; tel. (212) 239-1275

The 2009 Vacqueyras Les Aubes is made from 80% Grenache and 20% Syrah. It is a big, chunky, muscular, meaty style of Vacqueyras, with loads of kirsch, garrigue and pepper. One of the long-time benchmarks for superb Gigondas is Yves Gras’ estate on the high plateau several kilometers outside the entrance to this old Roman village. He has also expanded into the negociant end of the business with his Santa Duc Selections, which are very reliable wines worth a serious look. Until 2007, there were consistently two cuvees of Gigondas made in top vintages. With the finest vintages, Gras has now added a 100% Grenache cuvee called Grand Grenache 66, from a tiny parcel of vines and essentially just one small foudre. Turning back to the basic wines, they offer good value and are top-flight wines. The newest baby for Yves Gras comes from his purchase of 1.23 hectares (essentially about 3+ acres) of old vines planted with 100% Grenache in the Chateauneuf du Pape lieu-dit in the very north known as Font du Loup. Importer: Robert Kacher Selections, Washington, DC; tel. (202) 832-9083