The 2017 Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Champ Canet unfurls in the glass with a superb bouquet of citrus oil, crisp green apple, wheat toast, freshly baked bread and mandarin, followed by a medium to full-bodied, satiny and complete palate that's deep and layered, underpinned by incisive acids and concluding with a long, mineral finish. It's hard to choose between this and the more muscular, introverted Combottes, but both are worth a special effort to seek out.