The 2008 Zinfandel Feeney Vineyard has a beautiful nose of black raspberries, blackberry, and spice. Dark ruby purple, with high acid but enough body and richness to back up the aggressive acidification, this is an outstanding Zinfandel that should be drunk over the next 4-years, before the baby fat falls away and the acids take over. With thirteen separate Pinot Noirs, Williams-Selyem has something for just about everybody. Eight of these Pinot Noirs hail from relatively well-known sites in the Russian River and three come from the Sonoma Coast, while the two outliers are the Weir Vineyard from Yorkville Highlands and the Ferrington Vineyard from the Anderson Valley. Three well-regarded vineyards of the Sonoma Coast comprise part of this impressive Pinot Noir portfolio from Williams-Selyem. With eight Russian River bottlings, the two with the largest availability are the Eastside Road Neighbors and Westside Road Neighbors, which are blends from different fruit sources. The most underrated wines in the entire portfolio are the Zinfandels that come from winemaker Bob Cabrol. Tel. (707) 433-6425; Fax (707) 433-6546

So rich and powerful in fruit. Blackberry and cherry jam, mocha, cola, tobacco, black pepper, anise, licorice, beef jerky, it’s all there, on steroids.——S.H.(8/1/2010)—— 89