The 2002 Zinfandel Feeney Vineyard (which includes 3% Alicante in the blend) exhibits animal/garrigue-like characteristics along with notions of new saddle leather, roasted meats, herbs, and wild mountain fruits and flowers. This is a rustic, full-throttle, hulking Zin to drink over the next 4-5 years. Tel. (707) 433-6425; Fax (707) 433-6546

The downside of this wine is its enormous alcohol, nearly 16 percent. That’s the price you pay for a dry wine with gargantuan flavors. Black currants, cherry pie, tobacco, pepper, bitter chocolate and dill only begin to describe the palate. Yet the wine is balanced and even elegant. Truly an only-in-California experience.——S.H.(10/1/2004)—— 91