My favorite 2003 Zinfandel is the Feeney Vineyard, an opaque purple-tinged effort offering an explosive bouquet of blackberries, currants, crushed rocks, underbrush, and incense. Deep, full-bodied, rich, and layered, with spectacular concentration as well as length, this 160-case blockbuster should drink well for 5-7 years. Tel. (707) 433-6425; Fax (707) 433-6546

My favorite 2003 Zinfandel is the Feeney Vineyard, an opaque purple-tinged effort offering an explosive bouquet of blackberries, currants, crushed rocks, underbrush, and incense. Deep, full-bodied, rich, and layered, with spectacular concentration as well as length, this 160-case blockbuster should drink well for 5-7 years. Tel. (707) 433-6425; Fax (707) 433-6546

This wine has too much alcohol, namely 15.8%, and finishes hot and raisiny. Awkward exaggerations of what Zin should be. ——S.H.(11/1/2005)—— 83