The 2004 Zinfandel Feeney Vineyard, which shows better than it did last year, exhibits some herbal notes, tart acids, medium to full body, but it still has a somewhat jagged, disjointed feel to it. I don’t suspect this wine is ever really going to age that well, but if you like it, drink it now. Tel. (707) 433-6425; Fax (707) 433-6546

While this Zin is clinically dry, it’s so explosive in cherry, rhubarb, pomegranate and cola flavors that it’s almost sweet, like pie filling. The acids and tannins rush in at the last minute, balancing it with a dusty dryness. It’s a classically ripe coastal Zin, and savvy sommeliers will have fun figuring out what to pair it with.——S.H.(11/1/2006)—— 90