The 1998 Hermitage, which emerges primarily from such vineyard sites as Greffieux, Vignon, and Bessards, was totally closed when tasted. It displayed a dense ruby/purple color, a hint of blackberry fruit, and a boatload of tannin. However, it finished with a Bordeaux-like austere character. When sampled last year, I predicted this 1998 would be outstanding, but I am backing off. It requires a minimum of 4-5 years of cellaring, but the tough tannin is cause for concern. It should keep for 15-20 years. Importers: Cynthia Hurley Wine Imports, West Newton, MA; fax (617) 965-7530 and World Wine Import, Atlanta, GA; fax (404) 842-1487

The 1998 Hermitage, which emerges primarily from such vineyard sites as Greffieux, Vignon, and Bessards, was totally closed when tasted. It displayed a dense ruby/purple color, a hint of blackberry fruit, and a boatload of tannin. However, it finished with a Bordeaux-like austere character. When sampled last year, I predicted this 1998 would be outstanding, but I am backing off. It requires a minimum of 4-5 years of cellaring, but the tough tannin is cause for concern. It should keep for 15-20 years. Importers: Cynthia Hurley Wine Imports, West Newton, MA; fax (617) 965-7530 and World Wine Import, Atlanta, GA; fax (404) 842-1487