The 2014 Volnay 1er Cru les Champans is more closed than its Volnay cousins at the moment, although there is certainly plenty of tensile fruit here, more black than red, with hints of orange rind and fig coming through with aeration. The palate is very refined, wonderfully poised with a keen line of acidity, adorned with wonderful symmetry towards the finish. This is just superb - a sophisticated Champans for long-term ageing.
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