Light to medium ruby-colored but displaying more depth and concentration than the Volnay-Fremiets, the 2000 Volnay-Champans reveals aromas of black cherries and stones. This medium-bodied wine is loaded with black fruits. It reveals some tightness and firmness in the finish which kept the score from being higher. Projected maturity: now-2008.
Jean-Pierre Charlot has instituted a number of changes at Domaine Joseph Voillot in recent years, all for the best. He's lowered yields by pruning, harvests later to achieve better ripeness, installs sorting tables at the end of each row of vines to reject any unripe or moldy clusters, and has abandoned fining as well as filtration. It is immensely gratifying to see that Charlot, formerly an oenology teacher at Beaune's Lycee Viticole, is open to new ideas. Domaine Joseph Voillot's wines have never been better, readers should expect to see great things in the future from this old estate.
Importer: Vintage '59, Washington, DC; tel. (202) 966-9218
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