The 2006 Sangiovese is dark ruby-colored with a fragrant nose of cigar box, damp earth and smoky black cherry. Supple, ripe, and intense on the palate, it has plenty of savory, spicy cherry fruit, some underlying structure, and exceptional length. It will evolve for several years and drink well through 2018. Gary Figgins and son, Chris, keep tweaking things in the vineyards and cellar as they move toward totally biodynamic farming. As usual, their wines are benchmarks against which others must be measured. Tel. (509) 525-1428; www.leonetticellar.com

Held back for an extra year, this new Sangiovese from Leonetti was aged in 500 liter ovals. The vines are now a decade old, the flavors deep and dusty, with ripe and mature tannins and hints of coffee and anise. Good grip and focus, with a pure through-line and early suggestions of Brunello-like aging capability.——P.G.(9/1/2009)—— 92