The 2012 Meursault 1er Cru Les Charmes comes from the estate’s 1.25 hectare of vine, much of which is populated by vines in excess of 60 years. It is endowed with moderate complexity on the nose, and though it gains delineation in the glass, it just falls short of some of its peers. With gentle aeration there are hints of Alpine stream and cold stone. The palate is rounded on the entry though it is offset by a keen line of acidity and builds to a powerful saline finish. It is a little uncouth at present, but it may learn some manners after bottling.
I made a quick visit to Xavier Monnot’s winery, located next to his impressive grand maison tucked behind the church in the center of Meursault. The wines are branded under his own name in the United States, but elsewhere he adopts his grandfather’s title of Domaine Rene Monnier. A little like Yves Boyer-Martenot, Xavier’s present holdings have been inherited from his ancestors, with some parcels presently rented from his mother and sister, his father having passed away when he was a child. The domaine now farms around 17 hectares of vineyard in the Cote de Beaune. Xavier’s wines are well-crafted, perhaps not quite reaching the heights of its greatest exponents, but commercially savvy wines designed for mass appeal.
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