From two tiny parcels – one with old vines, one bordering Puligny Referts – the Monnot 2007 Meursault Charmes smells musky and florally perfumed; combines creaminess with palpable underlying density; and finishes penetratingly, with bright citrus and salinity slightly disconnected from the mid-palate impression. I perceive springs of energy that could come to this wine’s aid, and it picked up more refinement and succulence as it opened to the air. But it will need to achieve greater harmony. Still, it will be well worth revisiting.
Young Xavier Monnot – for some further notes on whom, consult issues 170 and 180 – bottled his vintage 2007 whites largely in November, 2008, and a few at 11 months. They all came in between 12.25 and 13% natural alcohol, but he did roughly a third to a half of a percent capitalization for the sake of prolonging and thus in his view improving the fermentations. They were not very charming when I tasted – 8-10 months after bottling – so I can only hope that this was a stage.
Importer: Robert Kacher Selections, Washington, DC; tel. (202) 832-9083
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