From 60-year-old, tiny-berried vines in an obscure and tiny Premier Cru just south of town, Boillot’s 2005 Pommard Les Croix Noires offers aromas of red raspberry and blueberry, with a pure palate impression of bright, snappy red fruit uncannily allied to creaminess of texture. Inner-mouth florality and medicinal bitter herbal notes add complexity. This finishes with fine, penetrating fruit intensity and a long, lean line of chalk. Also recommended: 2005 Fixin (unknown; 85-87). Having moved from Volnay to a newly-expanded facility he shares with his wife, Ghislaine Barthod, Louis Boillot fields a large and geographically diverse range of generally impressive, pure-fruited Pinots. (In rating them, I have left some leeway to allow for my previous unfamiliarity with Louis Boillot’s wines.)Importer: Rosenthal Wine Merchant, Pine Plains, NY; tel. (800) 910-1990.