The 2004 Merlot Mountain Top Vineyard is good, but slightly lean and austere. Previously recommended: 2003 Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve (93+), 2003 Merlot Vintner’s Select Mountain Top Vyd. (91). Tel. (707) 963-4949; Fax (707) 963-6039

Slightly lighter than previous vintages, the lean 2004 Merlot reveals austere tannin in the finish, but it offers nice herbal undertones in the attractive berry and mocha fruit. Drink this medium-bodied Merlot over the next 3-4 years. Previously recommended: 2002 Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve (96+), 2002 Reserve Claret (97+). Tel. (707) 963-4949; Fax (707) 963-6039

You’ll find tannins aplenty in this tightly wound mountain Merlot. That gives it a shut-down, dry astringency. Aging is the obvious solution, and such is the balance, the harmony that five to 10 years should soften and sweeten, letting the blackberry and cherry fruit emerge. ——S.H.(3/1/2007)—— 90