The 2002 Merlot, which comes from both the Napa and Sonoma sides of the mountain, is elegant, with wonderfully sweet black cherry fruit intermixed with a hint of mocha, white chocolate, and some background sappy wood notes. Its beautiful integration of acidity and tannin make for an elegant, polished, and stunning Merlot to drink over the next decade. Readers who love the Bob Foley style of wines, and there seem to be many who do, should also know that he produces wines under his own name, and is also the winemaker for Switchback Ridge and Hourglass, two other up-and-coming estates. Tel. (707) 963-4949; Fax (707) 963-8364

What a fabulous Merlot. Yes, it’s dense in texture, like molten metal, with melted tannins, but it’s kept lively with clean acids. Meanwhile, the flavors are sheer mountain fruit: concentrated blackberries and cherries and decadent mocha. Complex, elegant and addictively good. ——S.H.(6/1/2005)—— 93