The 2009 Pinot Noir Precious Mountain Vineyard is the most stern and angular of the Sonoma Coast Pinots. Firm yet well-integrated tannins support a core of dark red fruit. Today the wine comes across as very tight, but if the tannins soften, it could be considerably more interesting. Anticipated maturity: 2013-2017. I tasted a dizzying array of Pinot Noirs from Williams Selyem and winemaker Bob Cabral. Yields were down in 2009 because of bunch-stem necrosis, a condition that can occur because of weather/humidity extremes or mineral imbalances. Otherwise, it was a pretty regular vintage with an even set and a harvest that took place beginning in early September. Tel. (707) 433-6425

A stupendous Pinot Noir, showing how beautifully this vineyard performs in the remote Sonoma Coast above Fort Ross. Williams Selyem’s last few vintages of Precious Mountain have been extraordinary, but this 2009 tops them all. The wine is as light as a feather in the mouth, modest in alcohol and delicately feminine, like pure satin. However, few Pinot Noirs in the world achieve this level of concentration. Wild raspberries and cherries, cola, sleek minerals, dusty baking spices and smoky oak combine for flavors that are utterly delicious. After all that, it possesses an indefinable attribute of fascination. Will age well for a long time, if you can keep your hands off it. Now–2021.——S.H.(2/1/2012)—— 99